Mustang Rear Brakes The pictures sort of tell the story, basically, jack the car up using the differential and use jack stands under the axle housing for safety, take the wheel off, take the two 13mm bolts holding the caliper on and slide the caliper off and put it aside. Take the pads off and save the metal clips. Then take the two bolt holding the caliper braket off and the rotor comes off. If it's stubborn just use an old pad as a cushion and rap the rotor from the back real hard and it will break the rust bond. Now either take it and have it cut/resurfaced at an auto supply store or buy a new rotor. Put the new or resurfaced rotor back on. Put the bracket back on. Put the clips from the old pad on the new pad. Put antisqueal paste on the back of pads (metal side) and let them dry for about 15 minutes. Put the pads back in the bracket. Using the caliper piston compression tool (available at auto supply stores for rent or loan, I got this one on loan from Kragen with a $100 deposit), turn the handle to compress the piston flush in the caliper, takes quite a bit of turns. IMPORTANT, make sure that the notch in the piston is straight up and down and lines up with the center pin on the back of the pad. Put the caliper back on and bolt it on. Put the wheel back on and pump the brakes a few times to take the slack out of the piston and take her out for a test drive. Although I didn't, you may want to remove some fluid from the reservoir before compressing the pistons so it's not overfilled. take wheel off take 2 bolts off take caliper off take pads off take bracket off take rotor off put new/cut rotor on put bracket on piston compression tool put tool on crank the piston down flush piston compressed transfer clips to new pads